At 4:15 AM the new ‘gentle’ wake up alarm on my iPhone sounds off. It’s still dark outside. The ferry leaves from the town of Vis at 5:30. It’ll take me fifteen to twenty minutes to get there. I pack up the rest of my things, do a “dummy check” of the apartment; looking under […]
Tonight marks night three here for me on Vis, and my fourth day wandering around the pleasant village of Komiza. The lighting storm turned to rain early this morning, which I thought would hinder my plans to take a boat out to Biševo Island to explore the mysterious blue cave. Just five miles, or about […]
There’s not much to do in Komiza, save day trips by boat to nearby islands, eating, drinking, and wandering the maze of walkways that creep up the hillside. Tour operators tout a short trip to an uninhabited island that has a unique ‘blue cave.’ I make a note to consider this excursion tomorrow morning. After […]
Last night during my last supper here in Split, I honed down the growing grudge forming in my psyche. With Bokeria manager Marko shouting down the walkway after being turned away by the hostess, “fully booked.” They find a lone stool and seat me at the bar. Moments later, with a glass of chilled posip […]
I’m moving on and soon away from Split. With fewer kilograms to carry on my bike, I’ll feel peppier, more agile, and free. Right? So, F••k the hooligans who stole my things, it’s time to journey on. But before I motor on, I want to explore one of the most important and surviving Roman-era buildings […]
Today I wake up late. Perhaps I should train better for these all-nighters and hanging with locals until 4:30 AM evenings. I pull myself out of bed and down the stairs a little after noon. The sleep served me well. I feel good, energized and not slow at all. When I walk over to my […]
Though I would later regret my decision, I take the ferry from Trpanj to Ploce and ride to Split along the coast. Someone talked me out of taking the ship to Korcula, and then from there take another ferry to Split. “Are you here to ride or get ferried around in boats?” the local guide […]
For a small country, Croatia has so much for me to explore—and learn. Leaving Orebic in my rearview mirror behind, I head toward Dingač, the infamous and inhospitable wine region southeast of here. With my eye on research for my new book, I cannot leave the Peljesac peninsula until I’ve seen Dingac and its steep […]
I usually travel with no plans, no reservations, and no itinerary. So today after packing up, at the suggestion of Antonio and Sabina of the Holiday Adriatic Resort and Mikulic Boutique Winery, I motored my way northwest toward the end of the peninsula to Orebic where the Mikulic family operates a bouquet hotel and a […]
Mikulic Boutique Winery & Adriatic Holiday Resort Traffic and big trucks torment me as I wind my way back north to the Pelješac peninsula. Yesterday I connected with a young winemaker whose family for three generations crafted wine from the venerable Plavac Mali, a grape varietal only found here in Croatia. Since breaking through the […]
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