The Serbian Wine Renaissance: At Virtus Courage & Passion Help Lead The Way

I ride just over an hour, and after crossing the great Morava River, I get closer to my next destination Virtus Winery outside the town of Svilajnac, southeast of Despotika, near Vitezevo, a small village named after the medieval knights who there prepared to battle the Ottoman Turks—Vitez is the Serbian word for knight. I’m […]

A Vision for Serbia That Goes Beyond The Past: Vinarija Despotika

It’s brisk and sunny when I roll out of the Hotel Majestic garage. I’m heading south and will explore some of Serbia’s central wine region, then spend a day in Zupa in the south, before ending up in Nis, Serbia’s third-largest city. After about thirty minutes of riding the main A1 toll road, I dip […]

Belgrade Nights

Everyone tells me Belgrade is a party town or the “New Berlin.” So for the next two nights, I explore Belgrade at night. With fall weather moving in, I realize I haven’t made it as far on this journey than I thought I would. So while I would love to join the all night to […]

New Brakes, Belgrade BMW Bike Maintenance & Taxi Scam

It’s a mild, breezy and sunny day in Belgrade. It takes a few minutes to find the security guard to unlock the door of the garage. I push the bike past several buckets of paint and drywall mud and ride the short distance down the sidewalk promenade and let my GPS guide me to the […]

From Banker to Blogger: The Challenge & Opportunity For Serbian Wine (and it’s good)

Leaving is always tough. There’s ever the fear I missed something. I wonder about Novi Sad. Sadly, I cannot see and experience all the possibilities. Instead, I relish the memories and new friends made here in Novi Sad and move on—promising and intending to stay connected with all. I like this town. Tonight in Belgrade […]

Harvest Party On The Danube: Wedding Cabbage, Turkish Baths, Legendary Syrah

Mirjana and Lenka pick me up at Hotel Zenit just after 9 am. We cross the Danube passing through Petrovaradin and make our way around Fruska Gora and up into the hills, before dropping back down to the Danube in Stari Slankamen to the home of Milan and Snezana Spasic and their Acumincum Winery. Before […]

Women and Wine: Hello Serbia, Let the Discovery Begin!

There’s a BMW dealer in Novi Sad. I whisk out of Ilok early packed and filled, hoping they can replace and install the new bearings for my swing arm. The woman with a pretty smile and seductive eyes at the border of Serbia hardly looks at my passport. She doesn’t ask for any documentation on […]

From Refugee To Winemaker—The Stories On Our Hands—Ivan Buhac

It’s about 10:30 am when Domagoj shows up at the Old Cellar here in Ilok, the medieval town nestled into a hillside along the Danube River in eastern Croatia. My new friend from the local tourist office, Ivica, arranged for Domagoj to take me to his winery and cellar on the other side of town.  […]

Castles, Cellers, and Saints: Tasting History in Ilok, Croatia

The next morning Ivica meets me at the Iločki Podrumi, the Old Cellar. While wandering the medieval town, we connect with Guido Derksen, a travel and guide book writer from The Netherlands who is writing a new guidebook on the region and scheduled to tour the town with Ivica. They both let me tag along […]

The Cold Ride and Warm Welcome: Ilok On The Danube

It’s brisk as I pack my bike outside of Lobagola in Zagreb. A guy walking his dog passes me, stops, and looks at my bike. “Are you Allan?” he asks. I’m stunned. Not only does he speak perfect English, he knows my name. “I am,” I admit, and before I can ask him how he […]