Belgrade Nights

Everyone tells me Belgrade is a party town or the “New Berlin.” So for the next two nights, I explore Belgrade at night. With fall weather moving in, I realize I haven’t made it as far on this journey than I thought I would. So while I would love to join the all night to sunrise partying—like I did in Montenegro, Mostar, and Split, I will take in the nightlife here, but I’ll be in bed before sunrise.

I hear from Ivan one of Milan and Snezana’s friends who joined the harvest party earlier this week in Novi Sad. He will show me around town, take me to the infamous cobblestone Skadarlija Street for live music and a traditional Serbian Kafana experience.

Then on my last night, I will wander the streets with my camera in hand and wherever the Belgrade breeze blows, I’ll wander into a restaurant on a whim and a lark—without consulting TripAdvisor, Yelp, or any help from crowdsourced reviews and recommendations. Sometimes it’s important to unplug.

The legendary Shopska salad found everywhere in the Balkans.

Slow cooked meat and potatoes. Hearty food and good times in Belgrade

Walking the streets of Belgrade after that dinner, I’m amazed at the contrast in the neighborhoods just blocks from each other. People set up ad-hoc shops on the sidewalk in the muted glow of street light lit graffiti. Faucets wait patiently for thirsty passersby, while a motorcycle and erotic shop probably see more customers in the daylight. Streets, torn up and a mess, don’t dissuade taxis or pedestrians. It’s just Belgrade at night around my downtown hotel.