A Rain-Soaked Journey from Monforte de Lemos to León: Discovering the Camino

The Parador at Monforte de Lemos between Santiago and Leon in Spain.

After a delicious meal in the restaurant of the Parador of Monforte—an extraordinary hotel perched atop a hill, surrounded by the remnants of a 9th-century Benedictine Monastery, a palace, and other medieval buildings—Robb and I contemplated our route for the next leg of our journey. I savored a classic Galician dish of pork knuckle on polenta paired with a local red wine made from the Mencía grape, while Robb enjoyed fresh-baked cod and vegetables.

We’d hope our ride to this Parador, after two incredible days in Santiago de Compostela, would take a circuitous ride through the Ribeira Sacra wine region, tracing the Sil River. This area is famed for its steep vineyards, dramatic canyons, and panoramic views. But thick fog and unrelenting rain would have stretched our five-hour ride into a seven-hour challenge. We wondered: would we even be able to see any of these vistas?

Reluctantly, we chose a more direct route, though we still plotted our GPS to take us along backroads, avoiding highways and tolls. It turned out to be a wet and tiring ride, but reaching the hilltop Parador made us feel as if we had stepped back in time—with a hint of luxury.

The view at night of our Parador at Monforte de Lemos between Santiago and Leon in Spain.

The view from our Parador at Monforte de Lemos between Santiago and Leon in Spain.

This morning, as we gazed over the centuries-old cobblestones surrounding the monastery, there was no mistaking what the glistening stones told us: more rain. I had hoped to ride along the Sil River, but once again, the weather had other plans. Robb and I agreed to take the most direct route but aimed to avoid highways.

By the time we suited up in rain gear, it was close to 11 a.m. The GPS estimated a three-hour ride. We were dressed for the rain, but anyone who’s ridden a motorcycle knows that the experience is physically demanding even in dry weather. Riding requires intense concentration—your mind constantly scans for dangers: animals, cars, potholes, or even children darting across the street. The risk is amplified when riding in the rain. One mistake and you could be down.

I found myself yawning for the first thirty minutes—never a good sign. Fatigue is dangerous on a motorcycle, especially on unfamiliar, slippery roads. But I pushed through, focusing on the road. About an hour into the ride, I missed a turn, and we found ourselves on Spain’s A6 highway—the main west-east road from Santiago to Madrid.

The historic Cathedral de Santiago, km 0 for pilgrims on the Camino

I have a love-hate relationship with highways. They get you where you need to go, but the trade-off is sharing the road with massive trucks, erratic drivers, and the deafening noise of engines and wind. Drivers here don’t seem to care about space; they tailgate within inches, and when they pass, it feels like they’re cutting you off too soon. But it wasn’t all bad—finding a gas station with a café gave us a chance to refuel and escape the rain for a few moments over a quick coffee.

After resetting the GPS, we returned to the secondary roads. As we cruised along the wet pavement, we saw dozens of pilgrims donned in ponchos, walking sticks in hand, trekking the Camino de Santiago. I guess you could say Robb and I were exploring the Camino in reverse.

The Camino de Santiago is a must-do pilgrimage for many Christians and Catholics. While in Santiago, our guide Adrian explained that Spaniards top the list of pilgrims, followed by Americans. The Hollywood movie “The Way” (2010) by Emilio Estevez, featuring Martin Sheen, has inspired many, portraying the Camino as both a spiritual and transformative journey.

The traditional Camino route, the Camino Francés, begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France and winds through Spain, including regions like Navarra, La Rioja, Castilla y León, and Galicia, ultimately reaching Santiago de Compostela. That route spans some 500 miles—which many pilgraims trek over four to six weeks. But we learned that pilgrims don’t need to walk the full length of the Camino to be “credited” for doing it. They simply need to walk at least 60 miles to earn the official designation, collecting stamps in their pilgrimage passports along the way.

While Robb and I aren’t pilgrims, our encounters with them made us appreciate the commitment and passion behind their journey. It struck us that this was a Christian equivalent to the Hajj pilgrimage in Islam. However, the Camino didn’t become significant until the 12th century, making it one of the most important Christian pilgrimages, alongside routes to Jerusalem and Rome.

As the legend goes, Saint James, martyred in 44 AD in Jerusalem, had his body transported to Galicia, Spain, where it was eventually buried. Centuries later, a shepherd discovered the tomb, which led to the construction of a church—now the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral—marking the final destination of the pilgrimage.

Here in León, we’re surrounded by locals and pilgrims alike. As we dry out from the rain, we’re eager to explore León’s famous cathedral and indulge in its renowned tapas scene. Thoughts of Rueda, Toro, and Ribera del Duero wines make me even hungrier—and thirstier—as we prepare to dive into Spain’s culinary treasures.

The stunning Cathedral de Leon, a Gothic masterpiece with an incredible array of stained glass windows.