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Recent Posts
Slight Detour To Conover - Home of Held USA
September 22, 2008 12:58 PM
Blue Ridge Parkway to Asheville
September 21, 2008 01:13 PM
Making My Way Back To California
September 13, 2008 10:54 PM
Washington, DC - My Homecoming
September 11, 2008 12:34 AM
Putting The Pieces Back Together
September 6, 2008 09:27 PM
Back In The U.S.A.
August 13, 2008 09:38 PM
Welcome Back to USA: Disaster & Ripped Off.
August 8, 2008 07:30 PM
Hassles at the Port of Derince
July 4, 2008 04:16 PM
Istanbul (not Constantinople!)
July 2, 2008 07:35 PM
The Price of Gas? Come on!
July 1, 2008 10:02 AM

September 22, 2008

North America/USA   12:58 PM
Slight Detour To Conover - Home of Held USA

At less than one hundred miles off my route, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit the good folks at Held USA -- the importers of the fine German gloves I've used since starting my trip more than three years ago. Sadly, all of my Held gloves were ripped off at the Port in Derince near Istanbul Turkey when my bike was ransacked of nearly everything of any value that I had chosen to leave on the bike for its transAtlantic voyage.

Tommy and Elissa Kincaid, the couple that own and run Held USA, had sent a pair of gloves to my brother's place so I wouldn't be without Held gloves for my ride across the States. Operating out of a mid-sized office and warehouse in a modern industrial park in Conover, a smaller community just outside of Hickory, North Carolina, they've been importing Held since 2001. The German-based company has made gloves and other products for generations and the gloves have been imported into the U.S. for more than twenty years. When the Kincaid's started importing Held products, another west coast company had an exclusive deal for the gloves. But problems with that importer meant good fortune for the Kincaids and in 2006 they tacked the Held line of gloves onto their catalog.

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Mickey, Tommy and Elissa run Held out of a modest warehouse in Conover, North Carolina. A true down to earth small business run by passionate hardworking enthusiasts.

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I was surprised to discover that Held's catalog was packed with much more than simply gloves.

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I ended up spending most of the day with the Held folks. Later Mickey and Tommy provided me with maps and recommendations for my next day's ride.

To be sure, I had no idea they made anything else. But walking through the warehouse I was surprised to learn that they make riders' apparel, full leather racing suits and an impressive line of luggage and tank bags. Who knew? We shared stories of business and motorcycle travel over lunch and the conversation continued back at the office where I met their right hand man and sales guy Mickey. The best thing about hanging out with the Held folks that afternoon was watching them truly enjoy their work, smiling, joking and getting business done.

Tommy offered to replace my classic Held Steve gloves, my winter gloves and silk liners. But I didn't leave there without spending some money. Never a type of rider that used a tank bag, I listened to Tommy as he passionately demonstrated why the Held bags might be something worth looking at. I've never liked a big towering bag that would bump my thighs or groin when standing up on Doc while riding through rougher terrain. But this Held tank bag seemed it would solve a problem that's nagged me since leaving -- my digital SLR camera. Always hard to get to and locked up in my top case. To use this camera I had to stop, get off the bike, unlock the case and and finally retrieve it from under whatever else I've thrown in there. My fellow rider through Bolivia and northern Argentina, Jeremiah, used to keep his camera in a tank bag. But even his bag was too big. This new Held can hold just about my Canon 20D and a lens. Though Tommy suggests that I get some sort of padding to add to the existing padding just to be sure the camera doesn't bang around on rough roads.

Slowly but surely I'm getting back to nearly 100% of my core gear and supplies that I carried with me. Though I can't wait to do a quick analysis of the gear that I started with on my trip and the gear that I ultimately carried all the way around the world with me -- that is before much of it was ripped off. It will be an interesting lesson and I'm sure proof that the old adage: pack everything you think you need, but before you leave, get rid of half of it. Even then, later down the line you'll find a post office and send even more of it home.

Exactly.

Posted by allan | Comments (1)

September 21, 2008

North America/USA   01:13 PM
Blue Ridge Parkway to Asheville

From New York City I finally made progress toward the west coast and headed southwest with a plan to ride a somewhat southerly route all the way to California -- and only using back roads -- two lane highways or country roads exclusively. I will do my best to avoid any interstate travel and make my way home through Americana. A perfect time too, as our country prepares for and watches for one of the most exciting presidential campaign and elections in our history.

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Riding New York - Photo by Tim Amos

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View from Tim's place.

At a guess station I met a local rider who contributes to the Adventure Rider community of motorcyclists, 2ndSpace, he offered to put me in touch with other locals who could help with maintenance or repairs -- even put those tires on -- but Doc's been running good and I just wanted to ride. I took some local roads, grabbed a bit and eventually put myself back toward Shenandoah. Where I popped onto Skyline Drive, a beautiful road that winds its way through Shenandoah National Park in Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains. Riding this time of year and with the latest heat wave they've had here in Virginia, I'm a bit too early for seeing the fall colors express themselves on the hickory, elm, and hemlock trees that line the beautiful drive.


My first night I settle into a park service campground and while I haven't camped since Sudan, I seemed to fall right into place. With dark skies and thousands of stars and just a basic meal of noodles and broth, it just feels a little funny to be stateside once again with Doc. And wow! What a campground!

With a 35-mph speed limit, Skyline Drive isn't the road to make time. Besides, there's so much to see as the road is built nicely with plenty of pull-offs sporting panoramic vistas. Skyline Drive quickly ends and segues into one of the longest parkway in the country - The Blue Ridge Parkway. With great weather and more primitive campgrounds I continued my drive into North Carolina.

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Good old camping food along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

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Camping along the Blue Ridge Parkway

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The Blue Ridge Parkway winds its way through 469 miles of forest, meadows, valleys and mountains from Virginia through North Carolina and ending in Tennessee.

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The old Mabry Mill along the Blue Ridge Parkway.


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Road Food In Floyd, Virginia - Pulled Pork BBQ

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Along the way many bikers stop to chat with me at the pull-offs. With a stack of tires on the back and a bike that is quite different than 99% of the bikes I saw for the first few days of my ride, I still seem to attract attention -- even here in the USA. I first met a couple more local guys on sport bikes -- one the new Triumph Triple. And a group from St. Louis on Harleys. It's the tires that attract the attention. Though I have to admit, I'd only seen one other "adventure" bike in the few days I've been riding toward California -- and he was going the other way.

Lots of Harleys. Mostly. And a sport bike or two.

One guy riding a Suzuki 1200S Bandit couldn't believe the places I'd been. Like many before him, he had to grab his camera and take my picture. Tall with a tinge of a southern accent, wearing a typical motorcycle jacket, but then the rest of his gear? Jeans and cowboy boots. Neatly trimmed hair and a stack on the back of his motorcycle that would make any donkey or camel I'd seen in South America or Africa extremely jealous, Cliff Loose wore an easy smile and spoke with intense enthusiasm and excitement as he told the story of his first "bike camping" trip. Always a sport biker and because he lives just a few short miles from the infamous biker hallmark, Deals Gap, also known as "The Tail of the Dragon," he gets intense pleasure out of great day rides in the area. But today he was on his fifth day and still two or three days from home. "This has been a life changing experience for me," he revealed. "But you! I can't believe the places you've been."

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The Hurricane in Texas seemed to make finding gasoline quite a challenge. Other motorists I spoke to spoke of a greater conspiracy. No matter the reason, we couldn't find a gas station with fuel in all of Asheville on this September morning.

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Cliff Loose on his Suzuki Bandit. A weeklong motorcycle camping trip from Tennessee to West Virgiinia "changed his life".


We made plans to connect again the next day where I met him at Willville - an exclusive biker only campground just off the Blue Ridge Parkway 25 miles south of Floyd, Virginia. There I met Will and a group of guys just returning home after a Moto Guzzi rally. But that's part of what ties the biker community. It's the camaraderie, the rallies and just the shared passion of wind in your face freedom and the open road.

Riding through this town to find a nice place for dinner after many days of camping, both Cliff and I were shocked as to the extent of the fuel shortage in this part of hte country. Every gas station on Tunnel Road and into downtown Asheville was out of gas. The word is that the refineries were shut down in the prepartions for Hurricane Ike, which sadly has left many people without electricity for several weeks.

Cliff and I shared a hotel room here in Asheville. The next morning we found that the gas shortage hadn't fixed itself over night. Cliff headed back home to Franklin, and I rode onward to Held USA's headquarters just outside Hickory.

Posted by allan | Comments (0)

September 13, 2008

North America/USA   10:54 PM
Making My Way Back To California

As I feverishly work to get current on this blog, it's time to document yet another transcontinental ride. While hanging with friends and family on the east coast has certainly been warm, exciting, tasty and fulfilling, it's time I get back home -- to California where more loved ones, friends and family eagerly (I hope!!) await my arrival.

Even better, I received an odd email from a fellow motorcyclists. Odd only in the fact I was sure that Carl aka CrazyCarl (a contributing donor and "Friend of WorldRider"), was still riding motorcycles, teaching English and making films in China. But guess what? He just moved back to the states and is working and living very close to Jon. Though a WorldRider party/open house at Jon's had to be postponed until later in October, Carl and I managed to squeeze in a couple hours for some Thai food the night before I headed back to California. Carl has filmed a documentary about riding Chinese motorcycles around the rural westerly provinces of China -- they're available for purchase here.

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Crazy Carl and brother Jonathan contemplate Thai Food in McLean, Virginia.

I packed up the bike with all systems seemingly ready to go. Because Avon supported me with tires yet wishing not to be wasteful, I loaded the Avon Gripsters on the back of Doc and took off for my first stop -- Avalon, New Jersey -- where I will visit my friend Tim at his beautiful home just steps from the sand and the Atlantic Ocean. After all, I should be sure to do this trip from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Right? I motored up through Maryland and Delaware taking the ferry across the bay from Lewes. We spent quality time catching up. Since I last saw Tim in South America in February of 2007, he has climbed Mount Rainer, Mount Acongagua in Argentina and Denali (Mt. McKinley) in Alaska. So while my adventures have been taking me to new places, his have taken him to new heights. We celebrated with some great Argentinean, Italian and French Wines at local Avalon eateries Sea Salt and Jay's.

I couldn't leave the East Coast without a quick stop in the grandest city of the world - New York -- where Tim's other residence has panaromic views of Midtown Manhattan and the Empire State Buidling.

Joining Tim and I in Avalon was our friend and Tim's co-worker Joanne -- a contributing "Friend of WorldRider" I'd like to note -- and I headed up the parkway toward the Big Apple. Excited to bring Doc full circle and to see if we could get some photo opportunities with those landmarks that make New York famous. So when we rode into Liberty Park in Jersey City I was happy that the two Jersey State Park Police were both motorcyclists. After explaining my plight around the world on Doc, they agreed to let me wheel the motorcycle on the promenade so we could snap some photos of Doc and I finally returned to the land of freedom and our United States with the classic Icon of Lady Liberty, Ellis Island and the Manhattan skyline all symbolizing what makes this country so great.

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Deleware celebrating an important week for both riders and drivers.

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Over the Bay Bridge, through Maryland and Delaware to the Lewes - Cape May Ferry where Doc and I sailed to New Jersey.

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Joanne and Tim playing in the Atlantic.

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A glass of vino in the Atlantic isn't a bad idea either.

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Sunset the day before we took off for New York City.


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Sunrise the morning off to New York City. One last gander at the Atlantic and a bit of sand riding for the hell of it.

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Cruising to the Big Apple


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Explaining my plight and looking for permission to take Doc onto the Promenade at Liberty Park in Jersey City.

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[...] secure the Blessings of Liberty to ourselves and our Posterity [...]

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The Journey Continues and Hello New York!

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My favorite New Jersey Park Police - also bike riders! IMG_0421_2.jpg

The Big Apple.

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Times Square.

Posted by allan | Comments (5)

September 11, 2008

North America/USA   12:34 AM
Washington, DC - My Homecoming

Sure. The current government administration hasn't fared nor treated us Americans well. Our president is stuggling to make sense of his legacy and our country's top political parties have finally chosen their candidates and appointed vice presidential running mates. We are living in exciting and strange times.

So before pulling up my temporary roots here in Washington, I decided to make a quick ride to our nations capital to once again greet it and thank our forefathers for creating the greatest democracy and country on earth -- despite our problems and our set backs.


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Crossing Memorial Bridge over the Potomac River into Washington DC

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Heading toward the Abraham Lincoln Memorial


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The Capitol Building.

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The Washington Monument.

Posted by allan | Comments (0)

September 06, 2008

North America/USA   09:27 PM
Putting The Pieces Back Together

I've been set back quite a bit by the breach and thievery that happened either in Turkey or on the WWL ship. But I can't dwell on it other than sadly note that the only theft that occurred to me on this nearly three year journey happened after I had left the bike for its journey to come home by ocean freight.

Sad.

The good news is that Al Jesse sent me a new set of locks. Though I have to admit that I screwed up installing them back on the bags. I'm sure that he fits these locks into the hinged handles prior to securing the handles to the bags. I just couldn't get even my smaller hands to get these locks fitted correctly. I hope that when I ride through Arizona later this month he can straighten me out. The bags need a little work too.

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With Anna, Emily and Beanie the cat.

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Jon takes Doc out for a spin in the neighborhood.

Tommy and Elissa from Held USA who import the gloves that I bought back in 2005 and who replaced a pair under warranty that I had worn through after my first 30,000 miles, sent me a pair of their new "Fresh" lightweight glove. I hope that time and energy allows me to visit their offices in North Carolina as I make my way back to California.

Bill Plam and his crew at BMW Santa Cruz County are shipping me a pair of BMW Rallye 2 pans and a new electric vest. Though they're not giving it to me they are discounting the products by 10 or 15%. And Andy Goldfine of Aerostich, who supported me at the beginning of my trip is sending me a free replacement for my canvas tank panniers and I will have to purchase the lightweight bike cover -- the single best protection from theft or tampering you can buy for any trip. I often wonder that if the cover had been on the bike and not in the top box maybe I wouldn't have been ripped off.

I took the bike to Bob's BMW in Jessup, Maryland to fit new chain and sprocket, oil change and to examine the bike. Without an appointment, they were slammed and barely fit me in. They told me that the both the wheel and steering head bearings appear to be okay, though I'd rather replace them after nearly 60,000 miles. An ounce of protection. But we'll see.

One other thing the thieves didn't take was my AirHawk seat cushion -- thank god. But as I was fitting my gear and repacking I noticed that the valve no longer worked. They must have tried to figure out what this crazy looking "mini-mattress" was and in doing so destroyed the valve. Steve at AirHawk was kind enough to send me a replacement.

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Jon checks out the X-series of 650's offered by BMW - might be time for one Jon?

I'm happy to be back in the states as my good friends at Avon Tyres sent me a spanking new set of Gripsters. Though I still have quite a bit of tread on that amazing Zambian-based Dunlop that I fitted in Cairo. I'll have to carry these Avon's until I wear down the Dunlop.

My brother, his wife Maria and my nieces Emily and Anna have a been a joy to be around. With great company, lots of playing with the kids and good food and wine it's been a great acclimation period to be back in the USA. Plus, the use of his basement and ping-pong table has been instrumental in getting organized and ready for a cross continental ride to California.

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Pulling everything out of my duffel bag and what was left on the bike and in my bags (above)

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After organizing, repacking and sorting by available space. The quadrants of the ping-pong table each represent either the left or right Jesse and Aerostich bag; and the top box. On the floor is the stuff that goes into the Ortlieb dry bags which get strapped atop the Jesses. Then there's some miscellenay in th emiddle such as the AirHawk and some stuff in back which gts tucked under the seat. Feels like I'm starting all over again.


I was ready for a shake down ride and took off for Michigan to see Angie, Marti, Rick, the boys and more family!


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A quick weekend shakedown ride to Michigan turned out to be a good time to iron out some rough spots in the repacking. I also ended up getting stuck without power. The cables were so corroded that in the rain the whole system shut down. I must've not tightened the cables down enough when I replaced the battery at the Port of Baltimore.

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Angie's niece Francesca Maria and cousin Garret Dean with those legendary twins Grayson and Damian all pose on Doc after I did a shake down ride to Michigan.

Posted by allan | Comments (1)

August 13, 2008

North America/USA   09:38 PM
Back In The U.S.A.

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The Marine Memorial - aka Iwa Jima in Virginia across the Potomac.


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Brother Jon & good friend Tim, who met me in Argentina and Chile in 2006 sitting atop Charlie Palmer's in Washington DC with a nearly full moon and the usual "hill" sites while sipping some legendary Italian Vin Santo.


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A good ole BBQ at brother Jon's with Tim and Andrew Krauss.

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In Celebration we opened about 6 bottles of John Alban's legendary Rhone-style wines.



Posted by allan | Comments (0)

August 08, 2008

Asia/Turkey/USA   07:30 PM
Welcome Back to USA: Disaster & Ripped Off.

Well it should have been an easy task. Get my brother Jon to take a bit of time and shuttle me up to the Port of Baltimore, where Doc would be waiting for me. I had locked my boots, helmet and riding pants into the top box and Jesse Bags. My jacket was sent ahead for some repairs under BMW warranty, so with that I'd just pick up the rest of the gear and ride back to Virginia to spend some time with my brother and his family before embarking on the cross-continental USA leg of my WorldRider journey.

Not so fast.

The freight was sent freight-collect. So I'd sent my final payment to WWL a few days earlier. All I needed was to get my final bill of lading stamped by WWL at the Port of Baltimore and then get customs cleared. Simple enough. I was just about through the whole process when the U.S. customs agent asked that I bring the bike around to verify the VIN#. He pointed to the warehouse where I'd find the bike.

But when I got to the bike this is what it looked like:

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On top of that. The key that I'd left with the WWL agents in istanbul was in the ignition, the handlebars were locked, but they were locked in the first position. That is, the position that locks the bars and puts on the "parking" light. The battery was dead. A port mechanic tried to help me jump the bike. But when the cables were pulled off the bike just died. The battery is a goner.

But that's not all. Closer inspection revealed that the locks were pried off my Jesse bags. My Aerostich Tank Panniers were slashed (I had small pad locks on the zipper pulls). Pulling the key out of the ignition I opened the top box. My helmet was gone.

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That's not all. My riding pants were gone. But oddly enough, my boots were still in there. Nearly anything of value was stolen:

$499 BMW Rallye2 Pants (gry/blk size 42R)
$279 ea. BMW GoreTex Rallye II liners (sold with riding gear; I packed in a stuff sack in pannier. Replace jacket only; liner comes with pants $279)
$250 Caberg Justissimo Helmet (sadly no longer available in USA)

$200 BMW Heated Vest

$159 Held Steve Gloves (size 7.5)

$130 Held Hawk Cold Weather Gloves (size 8) no longer available replaced new model

$127 Aerostich Ultralight Bike Cover (lg)
$117 Aerostich Tank Panniers (std. blk.)
$ 80 Held Air Gloves (size 7)

$ 79 Petzl Myo XP Led Headlamp
$ 47 Digital MultiMeter (mini)
$ 44 Eagle Creek Pack-It Cubes (2 half; 2 qtr)

$ 25 Craftsman Screwdriver Set, Ratcheting
$ 25 Sears Digital Tire Gauge
$ 15 Silk Bacalava
$ 12 Silk Glove Liners

Minimum Loss To Date: $2,088 -- from what I can remember. Then add the cost of a new battery of about $60 and we're over $2,100. Hey, if there ever was a time you've thought about putting some gas in my tank through my "Friends of WorldRider" page, now is a good time to add to my kitty, as I'm going to have to replace most of this stuff for my journey across the United States. It makes me sick to my stomach and pains my brain to think that this happened just before I got home.
And thanks to all of you who have and many who've donated multiple times -- I'm blessed to have your support and cannot thank you enough.
Thankfully, I had packed all of my electronics, GPS, camera, iPod and clothing among others things in my duffel bag which made it back to the states safely.
While I know this stuff was ripped off at the port in Istanbul, it just is extremely hard for me to believe and I'm saddened that the end of this part of my trip comes down to the biggest breach of my journey. I've been to the purportedly most dangerous and unstable places in the world and never have I been ripped off. Oh, yeah. I got pick-pocketed in the Buenos Aires Subte. But that was sans motorcycle.
Truth is, this trip has reinforced my confidence in the good of humanity and the notion that with a good blend of attitude, streetwise, prudence and common sense that danger and rip offs can be avoided -- anywhere. Here I though my bike was in the good hands of the largest auto shipping company in the world. But perhaps that is the one place I let me guard down and it came back and bit me.
I'm told here by WWL's NYC office that their liability is limited to $500 in damage - unless I have marine insurance. Items not "part" of the bike are not covered. I was never offered insurance by the WWL agent in Istanbul and I had no insurance on the bike as the most common domestic policies don't cover vehicles when they leave the country.

Posted by allan | Comments (1)

July 04, 2008

Asia/Europe/Turkey   04:16 PM
Hassles at the Port of Derince

Sebile (a woman) at Yakin Dogu Deniz Acenteligi instructed me to bring the bike to the Port of Derince, which is about 45 minutes from Istanbul on the Marmara Sea. Though my schedule ship would not leave for about a week, I figured that the bike would be safer in the hands at the port rather than on the sidewalk in front of my hotel in Istanbul.

Sounds easy enough, but Yakin Dogu referred me to a customs agent who told me that I would not be able to bring the bike to port until the ship was ready for loading. This actually turned out to be false information. Further complications about clearing the bike for customs and the cost of doing this created a bit of bad energy at among the customs brokers. Plus, Turkish customs refused to stamp my carnet, though the customs officials at the border of Syria did stamp my carnet "incoming." Theoretically, without an "exit stamp" the CAA could hold my deposit. But with a bill of lading from the landing at Port of Baltimore, I should be find and there would be no problem.

So after all the commotion I left my bike in the Turkish Customs holding warehouse. Removing all those items I'd need for the rest of my stay in Istanbul and Turkey, I secured the unnecessary items into the Jesse Bags and top box. All else was loaded into a large duffel bag and would allow me to check it through on my flight back to the States.

So it was a sad day that I left Doc at the port. Though the trip is done here in Asia and Europe, I do look forward finishing a leg by riding across the United States from Washington DC to New York and on to California.



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It's that time. Doc sits awaiting to be loaded onto a ship headed to the Port of Baltimore on the eastern seaboard of the United States in the State of Maryland.


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Posted by allan | Comments (0)

July 02, 2008

Asia/Europe/Turkey   07:35 PM
Istanbul (not Constantinople!)

Istanbul is crammed with so much great architecture, history, people, food and art that it's impossible to explain it all. So better to just explain my feelings.

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In 2002 I had this crazy idea that I'd ride around the world on a motorcycle. Maybe it wasn't so crazy but it was long a dream to travel around the world. With my passion of writing, photography, history and meeting new people it was a perfect plan. I'd sell everything I didn't absolutely need including my car, home furnishings and just stuff that I accumulated and then head out on the road. Originally I thought I'd leave in July 2004, but a mild set back put that plan off by a year. On July 4, 2005 I was on my way. Without a home and only a motorcycle packed with way too much stuff.

Here nearly three years later I sit at the confluence of two continents. There were milestones I had conjured up in my mind: Alaska at the top of the world; Tierra el Fuego at the bottom. I'd always wanted to see Buenos Aires and the Amazon River. I'd dreamed of Namibia and the great sea of sand. Victoria Falls and Lake Malawi. Of course the Serengeti and the Sudan. The pyramids? Let's not forget Petra.

But Istanbul? I remember cursing the country watching Alan Parker's Midnight Express and yet I still wanted to see "for myself." Getting caught up in the speed of life for so many years these dreams and milestones never left me. So while many people talk about doing something they've always dreamed of, I felt it was time to stop talking and dreaming and just get on with it.

Now I sit in Istanbul. Sure, there is more of the world I want (and will) to see. But it's time to go home and continue to share my experiences and what I've seen, learned and felt over the years I've been on the road. I know I've inspired many who are planning their own trips or just setting out on new adventures regardless of whether they entail traveling. Just do what you want to do and believe in yourself. You can do it. The only person stopping you from doing it -- is you!

So as I wander through history and exploring the Ayasofya, Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern, Blue Mosque and the giant Bazaar I wonder how I can bring the excitement I feel while cruising this sites and the streets of the city. So rather than labor on about the sites, I've decided to mix it up a bit and present some of my favorite images to an old-time swing song about this fabulous city.

I hope you enjoy.

Posted by allan | Comments (1)

July 01, 2008

Asia/Turkey   10:02 AM
The Price of Gas? Come on!

I'm finding Turkey to be perhaps the most expensive country I've visited on this journey. I guess that's the western European economy bleeding over into the most western part of Asia from this side of the globe.

In the USA everyone is up in arms about the price of gas - petrol, fuel, benzine - whatever you call it. But we've got it made compared to Turkey. Average price per gallon to date? $12.50/gallon of gas


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Making my way through a small Turkish village.

Posted by allan | Comments (0)

June 18, 2008

Asia/Europe/Turkey   03:46 PM
The Arduous Process of Getting Home

After numerous e-mails and phone calls to more than a dozen shipping and air-freight brokers, I've found a way to get Doc home for a reasonable price. Thanks to the good folks at Yakin Dogu Deniz Acenteligi A.S in Istanbul who were referred to me by Wallenius Wilhelmsen Lines (WWL), I'm arranging to have my bike sent back to Baltimore, Maryland. It should arrive at the Port of Baltimore sometime in late July or early August.

My research found that airfreight would cost about $1,500 additional which is about the cost of my airline ticket to return home. Plus, WWL indicated that there is no need to crate the motorcycle - saving additional time and expense. They are the largest automobile shipping line in the world. My contact, Sebile Yazici is working with me to prepare the manifest, bill of lading and the necessary customs declarations.

I did my homework before choosing WWL and the group at Yakin Dogu Deniz Acenteligi. A couple other motorcyclists I'd found on the internet had positive experiences shipping motorcycles from here or there. So I was comfortable given the reputation of the company and past bikers experience.

Overall the process should be simple and straight forward. I'll bring the bike to them for review and final clearance soon.


Posted by allan | Comments (0)

June 15, 2008

Asia/Turkey   10:07 AM
Longing for better roads?

I remember days in Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, Malawi and even Namibia and Sudan just wishing and dreaming of nice sweeping turns on pavement roads. But you know what? I miss those places. The roads too. The more I ride and the more obstacles I overcome and those fears I confront, I build more confidence and therefore desire to try something new -- or something again. In hindsight, I wish I had pushed harder for a visa with more time in Sudan. But why dwell. I'm in Turkey. And check out these roads! (Thanks for the photo Ursula)


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Posted by allan | Comments (0)

June 14, 2008

Asia/Turkey   09:56 AM
Riding Through A Small Turkish City

Classic Four Minaret Mosque

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Photo by Ursula

Posted by allan | Comments (0)

June 10, 2008

Asia/Europe/Turkey   11:33 AM
Istanbul. So Much To See

Constantinople? Istanbul?

There are two sides of the city. One is in Asia (Anatolia) and the other Europe (Rumelia). It's truly where the two continents meet. Crossing the bridge over the Bosporus, the narrow strait that connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara, which ultimately connects with the Mediterranean. This narrow strait is actually the most narrow used for international shipping. Sitting on the European side of Istanbul and watching the massive container and tanker ships is a great way to get away from being overloaded on art, history and architecture of Istanbul.

Perhaps the last great Roman ruler, Constantinople made his last bad strategic decision - that is to move "Rome" to the hills above the Bosporus. He did this around 330AD and called the new Capital Constantinople. Then in the 1400's the Ottoman Turks, well on their way of building an empire took Constantinople and ultimately renamed it Istanbul.

Connecting with my new Brit friend, Patrick, who I met a week or so earlier, together we explored Istanbul on foot. Still amiss that as a British national he had no problem securing an Iranian visa, whereas us less fortunate Americans are consistently denied. We road across the Bosporus using the efficient and inexpensive public ferry system. This way one can "sail" from Europe to Asia. And just a few days before I rode from Asia into Europe. It's maddening. But it's true.

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Looking over the sea of Marmara, I spot Constantinople or modern day Istanbul. It's over these waters that someday my bike will head back to America.


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Always making friends with the local authorities. I found the Turkish police to be much like the police in other countries: friendly, curious and funny!

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Arriving in Istanbul at night, I took the chance to have a beer and a plate of hummus while gazing out at the iconic AyasofyaIMG_9115_2.jpg

This tiny passage is the narrowest used for international shipping - the Bosporus.

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It's always time for Chai - as Patrick demonstrates.

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Patrick shows off his iranian Visa!!! I won't see one of these anytime soon.

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Decorative takes on art are abundant in Istanbul - check out this shoe shine box!

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Riding the local ferry across the Bosporus.


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Istanbul Haydarpaşa, the main train station on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. It was build on over 1,000 wooden piles slammed deep into the seabed and as such it is like a peninsula surrounded by water on three sides. Built between 1906 and 1908, It was a gift to Sultan Abdulhamid II from Kaiser Wilhelm II, his ally.

Posted by allan | Comments (0)

June 09, 2008

Asia/Europe   11:44 AM
Yeah baby! I made it!

Welcome to Istanbul. East meets West. WorldRider meets Europe. Phew.


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Crossing the Bosporus makes the fifth continent I've traveled since starting my journey nearly three years ago. A major milestone.


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Posted by allan | Comments (0)

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